Tailors in Naples want Europe to protect the name of their famous jacket, in the same way that Champagne is protected. If they succeed, only jackets made to their rules could be sold as Neapolitan.
How does protection work?
In Europe, some names are protected by law. Only sparkling wine from the Champagne region, made in the traditional way, can be called Champagne. Parmigiano Reggiano and Stilton cheese are protected in the same way. For a long time this only covered food and drink, but the European Union has recently extended the idea to craft products as well, which opens the door for things like glass, lace and, perhaps, tailoring.
What makes a Neapolitan jacket?
The Neapolitan jacket is one of the most loved styles in menswear. It was born in a hot city, so it is made to be as light and comfortable as possible. Common features include:
- A soft shoulder with little or no padding, sometimes sewn like a shirt sleeve, known as spalla camicia.
- Very light construction, often with only a partial lining or no lining at all.
- A curved breast pocket, called a barchetta because it looks like a little boat, and patch pockets at the hips.
- A lot of handwork, from the buttonholes to the stitching around the edges.
The result is a jacket that feels almost like a cardigan but still looks sharp. Houses such as Rubinacci, Kiton and Cesare Attolini have made the style famous worldwide.
Why the tailors want it
Neapolitan tailors worry that their name is being used to sell jackets that look a bit soft but are made in a factory, without the handwork or the skills that make the real thing special. Protecting the name would help customers know what they are paying for and keep the craft alive for the next generation.
What it means for the rest of us
Whatever happens in Brussels, the Neapolitan approach will keep influencing tailoring everywhere. Many customers now ask for a softer shoulder and a lighter jacket, whatever the cloth. If you love the look, book an appointment and we can talk about how soft you would like your next jacket to be.
