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Corduroy grows up: from school trousers to smart suits

Corduroy, the ribbed cotton you may remember from school trousers, is moving up in the world. On 10 October the luxury magazine Robb Report wrote that corduroy is now finding its way into smart suits.

What is corduroy?

Corduroy is a cotton cloth woven with raised lines, called wales, running along its length. The wales can be very fine, as in needlecord, or wide and chunky, as in so-called jumbo cord. Because the surface is soft and catches the light, corduroy has a gentle, warm look and a slightly different shade depending on the angle you see it from.

Why it works in a suit

Corduroy has a lot going for it as a suiting. It is warm without being heavy, which makes it ideal for autumn and winter. Its texture gives a plain suit a bit of character, so you do not need a pattern to make it interesting. And it has a relaxed feeling that suits the way many people dress today: smart, but not stiff.

A corduroy suit also breaks apart beautifully. Wear the jacket with jeans or flannel trousers, and the trousers with a jumper, and you have several outfits from one order.

How to wear it

Colour matters with corduroy. Brown, tobacco, olive, navy and deep green all look rich and easy. Cream and stone can look striking in a finer cord. A medium wale is the most versatile choice for a suit, while a fine needlecord is the smartest and drapes the best.

Keep the shape soft and natural. A softly made jacket with patch pockets and an easy shoulder suits corduroy better than a sharp, structured cut. Pair it with a roll-neck, an oxford shirt or a knitted tie, and finish with suede shoes or boots.

Bespoke corduroy

Corduroy needs careful handling when it is cut. The wales have to line up neatly across the seams, and the cloth must all be cut in the same direction or the colour will look patchy. That is just the kind of detail a tailor takes care of. Book an appointment and ask about corduroy for your next suit or jacket.

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